2004 IACP Cookbook Award Finalist
NEW AMERICAN CHEF:
with the Best of Flavors and Techniques
from Around the World
by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page
"THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF thoroughly demonstrates that
the zeitgeist of modern cooking in this country has shifted to
the various ethnic influences that make up our populace.
This glorious work literally sings with the excitement of
what is our own culinary make-up: diversity, passion, exhuberance, intrigue, and spice. You will be well served
if you study these pages!"
— Charlie Trotter, chef-owner, Charlie Trotter's (Chicago)
THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF
was selected as a Finalist for a 2004 IACP Cookbook Award
as one of the best cookbooks of the year, and has appeared on many of the
holiday gift lists and/or in the year-end round-ups of the best cookbooks of 2003 by several important journalists, including:
- Gael Greene of NEW YORK
- Kathie Jenkins of THE ST. PAUL PIONEER PRESS
- Carolyn Jung of THE SAN JOSE MERCURY NEWS
- Marilynn Marter of THE PHILADELPHIA INQUIRER
- B.A. Nilsson of METROLAND
- William Rice of THE CHICAGO TRIBUNE
- Bart Ripp of THE (Tacoma, WA) NEWS TRIBUNE
- Cheri Sicard of FABULOUSFOODS.COM
- Muriel Stevens of THE LAS VEGAS SUN
- Marion Sullivan of THE CHARLESTON POST AND COURIER
The Vancouver Sun (June 9, 2004)
American enthusiasm, these new 'lions in the kitchen' are
elevating cooking to a level never attained before in this
Bursting with insights
and recipes from an unprecedented collection of America's
leading culinary authorities, THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF
is the first book to share the secrets of cooking with
the vast array of global ingredients and techniques at the
fingertips of today's chefs and cooks.
The "incisive, hip
writing team" (Publishers Weekly) of Andrew Dornenburg
and Karen Page, winners of the James Beard Award for Best
Writing on Food, have brought together dozens of top chefs
and cookbook authors — including Mario Batali, Rick Bayless,
Daniel Boulud, Alain Ducasse, Julie Sahni, Nina Simonds, Paula
Wolfert, and many others — to reveal the essence of ten popular
and influential cuisines: Chinese, French, Indian, Italian,
Japanese, Mexican, Moroccan, Spanish, Thai and Vietnamese.
chapter reveals a fundamental lesson that one of these cuisines
has to offer, whether it's procuring the best ingredients
(Italy), balancing strong flavors and aromatics (Thailand),
or using spices (India) and chiles (Mexico) with skill and
||Celebrating the seasons through all the senses
||Procuring the best ingredients
||Letting ingredients taste of what they are
||Western classical techniques and savoir faire
||Eastern classical techniques and yin-yang balance
||The masterful use of spices
||Lessons from the land where chiles reign supreme
||Balancing strong flavors and aromatics
||Encouraging tactile and tasteful interaction
||Feasting in comfort with family and friends
Best of all, there are more than 100 recipes to
practice and savor — including Gazpacho Andaluz from Jose Andres
of Jaleo, Rock Candy-Ginger Short Ribs from Michael Tong of
Shun Lee Palace, and Vanilla Flan from Susan Feniger and Mary
Sue Milliken of Border Grill. Throughout, Michael Donnelly's
exquisite photographs transform the book into a feast for
the eyes as well as the palate.
book comprising a virtual around-the-world cooking school,
THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF will make anyone a better
cook — no matter what they're cooking.
NEW AMERICAN CHEF
"THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF is like ten cookbooks in one. Authors Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page chose to feature ten different cuisines, then asked some of the country's best chefs to contribute (look for French recipes from Daniel Boulud, Italian dishes from Mario Batali, and more)."
— BON APPETIT (12/03)
"Cooks celebrate food melting pot: Our kitchens are a great place to sample the diversity of influences that make up the culture of the United States. That inviting idea doesn't lack for guidelines: Among the wealth of cookbooks lined up to choose from are many offering traditional dishes adapted or evolved from ancestral sources. Here are a few to look at: THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page promises 'cooking with the best of flavors and techniques from around the world'."
— THE COLUMBIAN (1/6/04)
"The premise behind the innovative book by award-winning cookbook authors Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page is that American cuisine today is really a culmination of many cuisines that have influenced cooks and chefs. Therefore, in order to become a better cook, one must have an understanding and working knowledge of the ten most popular and influential cuisines, namely: Chinese, French, Indian, Italian, Japanese, Mexican, Moroccan, Spanish, Thai, and Vietnamese.
Through contributions from dozens of the country's top chefs and cookbook authors, THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF presents an overview, history, techniques, and recipes to reveal the essence and core of each cuisine. Each chapter is a fundamental lesson for the featured cuisine, and a selection of both classic and cutting-edge recipes (100 in all). Learning the essence and techniques of each of these cuisines, and mastering some of these recipes, becomes the building blocks for better cooking -- whether home cook or aspiring chef. Nicely organized, well researched and written, and full of valuable information, THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF is an indispensable and immensely useable reference."
Top Picks: Holiday Gift Ideas
Best Books for Favorite Foodists
"Food pros and home cooks alike will be delighted with THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. This recently-released follow-on to the authors' best-selling hit, BECOMING A CHEF, features the techniques of today's top chefs. Mario Batali, Daniel Boulud, Alain Ducasse, Paula Wolfert, and many others share the foundations of (and nearly 200 recipes from) ten influential cuisines: Japanese, Italian, Spanish, French, Chinese, Indian, Mexican, Thai, Vietnamese, and Moroccan. Anyone who loves to cook and wants to keep up with the latest global trends will be delighted to have this new book."
"Dornenburg and Page (CHEF'S NIGHT OUT, BECOMING A CHEF) collaborate successfully once more, bringing together the international inspirations that today's chefs draw from. As unusual, often imported ingredients become more readily available, the authors believe that 'there is an exciting opportunity for experimentation and exercising creativity. On the other hand, experimentation — particularly in the hands of an inexperienced chef — can be disastrous. Dornenburg and Page address this problem by bringing together 10 fundamental international cuisines in one handy volume. Drawing on the knowledge of the leading exponents of each fare, and liberally sprinkling in quotations, they distill these styles, ingredients and techniques into a philosophy that can guide the chef or the inspired home cook to produce authentic results. Whether focusing on Japanese or Moroccan cuisines, the authors call for advice upon the likes of such notables as Paula Wolfert, Rick Bayless and Daniel Boulud, who provide not only their expertise, but also their recipes. Each section is divided into the fundamentals, including a culinary map, flavor palette, ingredients and techniques as well as a suggested reading list from cookbook shop notable Nach Waxman, before finishing with several timeless recipes that provide a basic repertoire. Most recipes require a certain level of knowledge and competence, but some, such as the clean-tasting Gazpacho Andaluz and the vibrant Chicken Tagine with Prunes, are within reach of any cook. The finished work is deceptively thorough, [working best] as a guide to the values, tastes and methods that form each cuisine."
— PUBLISHERS WEEKLY (7/7/03)
BOOK REPORT: A Shortcut to Sophistication
"The best books are written with a crystal-clear purpose in mind, and Beard Award-winning writers Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page (BECOMING A CHEF, CHEF'S NIGHT OUT) have really honed in on a crucial subject for THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF ($29.95).
Their analysis of the current culinary situation hits the nail on the head. 'Whereas a young professional cook may have had the opportunity in years past to develop a solid grounding in classic technique (most frequently French) before branching off into multiethnic experimentation, today the same cook has to work from day one with an extraordinarily wide variety of ingredients and techniques,' they write. 'The widespread availability of international ingredients has outpaced our ability to assimilate them into our daily cooking. This represents both a major opportunity and a major challenge for the New American chef.'
Few full service restaurant operators or, especially, restaurant critics would argue against Dornenburg's and Page's thesis.
This book is designed to fill the ever-widening information gap. And while it seems like an impossibly large topic to cover, this clever duo devised a format that distills the essentials of 10 influential cuisines (Chinese, French, Indian, Italian, Japanese, Mexican, Moroccan, Spanish, Thai, Vietnamese) into digestible lessons for the reader.
Each chapter begins with a lengthy profile of a particular country's cuisine, with key fundamentals spelled out via interviews with respected chefs and cookbook authors. Then come recipes (one hundred in all for the book) that enables the reader to tackle the lessons just learned. Dozens of celebrity chefs dot the roster of contributors.
'We've narrowed down the gist of what you need to know about each cuisine in order to retain its spirit in your cooking,' Dornenburg and Page say. 'In thirty pages per cuisine, we can make you feel like you have just taken an immersion course in that cuisine and our experts will enable you to better reproduce its food and its spirit in your kitchen.'
What a godsend. This book will be of value to just about anyone who works in the back of the house or write a menu cooked there."
— RESTAURANT HOSPITALITY (12/03)
"It's hard to say what makes authors Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg so readable: their informed delivery of cooking lore, culinary history and explanation of techniques? Or is it the pleasure of getting inside the heads and hearts of some of America's great chefs and sommeliers? Why go out to eat if you can stay at home and gorge on THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF, in which Page and Dornenburg tell the story of 10 international cuisines through the instruction and techniques of U.S.-based experts in each type of cooking? The duo has collected recipes, techniques, quotes and insights from pros like Masa Takayama of Ginza Sushi-ko, Mario Batali, Daniel Boulud, Rick and Deann Bayless and others. It's required reading for aspiring chefs and latent foodies."
— WINE ENTHUSIAST (10/03)
"Husband-and-wife team Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page have collaborated on their latest cookbook called THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF...which shares secrets of cooking with the vast array of global ingredients and techniques at the fingertips of today's chefs...."
— WLS-TV / Chicago (10/14/03)
"IN THE KITCHEN: The yin and yang of ‘the mother of Asian cuisines’. The recent earthquake in China has reminded me of how much the culinary world owes to this ancient nation. Chinese cuisine is the mother of all Asian cuisines. There is hardly a fine dining restaurant around today that does not show some influence from Asian food. When I want an overview of a country’s cuisine, I turn to Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page’s THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2003). This book is a valuable resource, with its sections on ethnic foods that include concise information on each cuisine’s history and current influence on American chefs; key ingredients and flavors; cooking techniques, and equipment (and recipes, although I used others’, below). From its pages I learn that the Chinese were cultivating rice in 4000 B.C., and by 1100 B.C. were using ice for refrigeration, with more than 3,000 people preparing food for the royal court. Confucius wrote about the importance of eating wholesome food. The philosophy was that the achievement of peace and harmony comes through applying the principals of yin and yang. A balanced diet means balancing the cooling and heating properties of yin (mostly fruits, vegetables and seafood) and yang (red meat, eggs, pungent spices). Below are some of my favorite quick-and-easy Chinese recipes. Mapo tofu, a staple of Chinese home cooks, is from Sichuan province where the earthquake was centered. Make a dish — then make a donation to your favorite relief agency."
— Faith Bahadurian, The Princeton Packet (June 6, 2008)
"Andrew Dornenburg skillfully segues into what skills and understanding are necessary before erroneously haphazardly combining ingredients....THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF unfolds to tell a righteous tale of creating great food. Page and Dornenburg work well together to explain the relevance of travel, knowing the market and exposure to our multicultural landscape. As if this Beard Award-wining writing duo did not bring enough insight and experience to their tome, the likes of Mario Batali, Paula Wolfert and Daniel Boulud, among others, offer their insight into the technique development driven work. The premise to THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF as I understand it is that, simply put, 'before you get in the car have a map in hand.' Page and Dornenburg focus the play on 'fusion food' by dissecting 10 cultures' contribution to the American food scene, with the help of an amazing supporting cast. The team reflects back that pretty much all food is a confabulation of food from neighboring and distant lands. So, in order to successfully navigate the new culinary scene, our new chefs must understand the successful use of the foods from around the world. Mind you, with understanding the food from all over comes an appreciation for the purchase of ingredients, relevant understanding of various regions within a culture as well as the technique employed to create such dishes. The 400+-page whisk around the world calls on top talent to lend their own takes on the dynamics of preparing food for in 21st century America....I have a new, energized appreciation for this writing duo — not that they were lacking culinary wherewithal in the past. Instead, THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF has given me a new and concrete perspective at developing my own culinary skills by relying on their 'take heed' research as well as the constructive input of their many talented contributors."
— Jim Berman, CHEFTALK.COM
"Chili incarnations: Chefs create hot new dishes from the canned classic — When the heat is on, canned chili is one of those pantry staples that always comes to the rescue in the form of a heat-and-eat supper. But what happens when this South of the Border 'convenience food' becomes an ingredient itself? We asked some creative chefs to think outside the can and come up with novel uses for this classic...When Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, authors of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF, dress up a can of Hormel chili, they [recommend using] it in a taco salad or in huevos rancheros, the classic Mexican egg dish. 'Our chili has its origins in a chili-making contest that took place in Chicago several years ago,' Page says. 'People were amazed at how good Andrew's chili tasted. The secret is in the toasted pepitas [shelled pumpkin seeds], which are both a killer garnish and an addictive snack!'"
— Rosemary Black, NEW YORK DAILY NEWS
the New American cuisine by gingerly getting you inside
your favorite restaurants' kitchens and taking you out into
the world's colorful fields, markets and villages — showing splendid sociological sensibilities throughout."
— Glenn Carroll, Lane Professor of
Organizations at the Stanford Business School and Professor
of Sociology, Stanford University
On Food: Book helps navigate new culinary terrain
"Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page are the authors of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF (Wiley, 432 pages, $29.95). They discovered in their travels across the country that specialty ingredients once limited to culinary meccas aren't so exclusive anymore.
'This is not a New York City or San Francisco phenomenon anymore,' Page says. 'We're all trying to learn about these ingredients and how to use them.'
The premise of the book is that the accessibility of exotic ingredients has come at a faster pace than our understanding of the nature of those items and their proper use. There are also many misconceptions about each cuisine, and that French technique is the basis of all professional cooking.
The authors, in the same way they helped demystify the field of restaurant criticism in DINING OUT, developed a guide to understanding what makes each of 10 cuisines what it is. They offer a culinary compass, divided into traditional, Western cuisines, experimental and Eastern cuisines, as a navigational tool.
'If you don't have the language, it's hard to have intelligent conversations with people,' says Page, who isn't a cook but needed a way to communicate with her chef-husband, Dornenburg, and his friends.
'I just keep asking the dumb questions. I'm a consultant by trade and I know how to make charts. I try to understand the world and put it into a visual. It's the anthropological process of figuring out what the hell my husband does.'
The couple interviewed a bevy of experts in the cuisines, which includes Japanese, Italian, Chinese, French, Indian, Mexican and Spanish, who break down the barriers to understanding.
For example, Indian cookbook author Julie Sahni says that one of the reasons there are misconceptions among American diners about Indian food is that " 'as Indian restaurants got better, they didn't teach Americans how to order... Indian cuisine is not necessarily mix-and-match food.' '
Dornenburg describes the book as the Cliffs Notes to these cuisines. He found out the hard way that he didn't know as much about how to combine certain ingredients as he thought.
'One night, I made polenta and decided to add goat cheese and cilantro — it was horrible,' he says. 'We went out for pizza instead.'
Page adds that 'each cuisine has something very fabulous about it and no one has articulated what makes one distinct from another.'
To me, this book is full of possibility and knowledge. Like most people, I learn about different cuisines from travel or cookbooks or eating in restaurants. I don't sit down with a stack of books and do a comparative analysis. THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF, with more than 100 recipes, is a concise resource for anyone who likes to cook. It's also stimulating for anyone who likes to read food books.
For more information about Dornenburg and Page and their other books, visit www.becomingachef.com."
— Hsiao-Ching Chou, SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER (12/10/03)
"THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF is not just for professional chefs, but for all people who love cooking!"
— Annie Copps, "Table Talk" on WBIX Radio (11/8/03)
"IACP Cookbook Award Finalists Unveiled: Nominees for the year's second batch of cookbook awards were announced last week. Winners of the International Association of Culinary Professionals prizes will be announced April 24 during the group's annual conference in Baltimore. Among the finalists: Chefs and Restaurants: The Balthazar Cookbook by Keith McNally, Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson (Clarkson Potter, $37.50); Bistro Cooking at Home by Gordon Hamersley and Joanne McAllister Smart (Broadway Books, $35); and THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page (John Wiley & Sons, $29.95). The full list of finalists is online at iacp.com."
— THE DALLAS MORNING NEWS (March 31, 2004)
NEW AMERICAN CHEF is a prime example of how the power
of a single book can change your cooking. Drawing on a distinguished
circle of America's leading culinary experts, this is the
first book to distill their wisdom to guide readers to cook
more intuitively. This book provides the essence of each
of 10 influential cuisines — 'celebrating the seasons,'
'procuring the best ingredients,' and more — which will help
you hone your gut instinct and guide you through the challenges
of cooking with ingredients and techniques from around the
world. Readers will be inspired to intuitively bring forth
the sensibilities of native chefs in their own cooking."
— Laura Day, New York Times
bestselling author of Practical Intuition and The
Circle: How the Power of a Single Wish Can Change Your Life
"THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF is such a beautiful dedication to all the chefs preserving culinary traditions around the world. What a marvel!"
— Alain Ducasse, chef-owner of Alain Ducasse and the first chef ever to hold nine Michelin stars simultaneously
"THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF comes as the fifth collaborative from the James Beard award-winning Dornenburg-Page relationship....What makes this book standout is not only is it well researched but the pedigree of the contributing chefs is outstanding. In addition to the aforementioned culinarians, Daniel Boulud, Hubert Keller, Jean-Georges Vongerichten (to name but a few) lend weight to its pages. Neat touches like a seasonal Japanese food chart, essays on Sherry and tea pairing suggestions add a unique edge. Photographs to accompany the recipes would have been a welcome addition but THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF retails at under $30, if food shots had been included I am sure that would have added at least another $10 to the price tag. In a book that is so content driven food shots are not essential. So who should buy this book? Just about any chef, student or food fan will get something out of it. It is not the kind of book that one is instantly enamored by but more the type that draws you back in after reading a couple of pages; in actual fact now I have reviewed it I am going to read it all over again! Verdict: An inexpensive, worthy purchase."
— Jeremy Emmerson, www.globalchefs.com
"My guests tonight are...two of the most talented voices we have working in the world of food and wine today...Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page are the husband-and-wife team that brought some of our favorite food books to life...It's a fabulous idea to use their book THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF [for its global recipes for an Oscar night global-themed dinner party]."
— Jennifer English, award-winning host, "Don't Talk With Your Mouth Full" on The Food & Wine Radio Network
NEW AMERICAN CHEF has a refined and sophisticated style. There is a huge melting pot of techniques which
draw on many cultures and regions, redefining old classics
and creating new classics as well. Excellent reading!"
— Todd English, chef-owner of Olives and Figs
"Congratulations — THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF is a finalist for an IACP Cookbook Award in the Chefs and Restaurants category."
— Suzanne Fass, eGullet.com (March 22, 2004)
"We are really enjoyingTHE NEW AMERICAN CHEF. We love how the book is organized. It is nice, as a chef, to continue to learn in an inspiring manner. Reading the chapters consecutively, especially the section on Asian food, has clarified a lot of questions I have had for myself."
— Diane Forley (and Michael Otsuka), former chefs-owners of Verbena in New York City
"Leonardo da Vinci, a passionate lover of the culinary arts, wrote that 'the five senses are the ministers of the soul.' THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF soulfully cultivates the reader's senses as it celebrates the essential genius of ten influential cuisines. Learning to think like the 'dream team' of culinary authorities featured in this brilliant book will inspire and guide you to juggle global ingredients and techniques so you can cook,
and create, like a maestro."
—Michael Gelb, New York Times bestselling author of
How to Think Like Leonardo da Vinci
Required Reading for Foodies
ASK GAEL: Are too many cookbooks just barely enough?
"Even as I deaccession my cookbook overload, I can't resist the new....THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF, from my pals Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, explores flavors and techniques in the words of the chefs themselves."
— Gael Greene, NEW YORK
"KEEP IT SIMPLE, SAY FOODIES: When Avenue magazine invited four writers to an eight-course dinner at Alain Ducasse, the most expensive restaurant in Manhattan, the guests didn't put on airs. Etiquette expert Charlotte Ford confessed that when she's home alone, she cooks everything on a George Foreman Grill. 'Lamb chops come out crispy and delicious — I marinate them all day in soy sauce,' the automotive heiress told columnist Richard Turley. Kitchen Confidential author Anthony Bourdain chimed in, 'I own a George Foreman Grill and I would never have admitted it. You broke the ice. It is fabulous.' Andrew Dornenburg, co-author of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF, admitted he loved his grill, too. Caterer-to-the-cognoscenti Serena Bass asked Ford if it's OK to put on lipstick at the table. 'The Queen does it,' Ford responded...."
— Richard Johnson, NEW YORK POST, "Page Six"
Our Picks for the Year's Dozen Best Gift Cookbooks:
THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking with the Best of Flavors and Techniques From Around the World by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page
"This-husband-and-wife team found a calling by delving into the inner workings of chefs and restaurants in such previous books as BECOMING A CHEF. This time, the authors ponder what makes up a cuisine. With insights from chefs such as Alain Ducasse, Mario Batali and Rick Bayless, they dissect 10 cuisines, from Japanese to Spanish to Moroccan, to reveal the common techniques, ingredients and influences of each. Each chapter includes a list of recommended reading. Recipes include miso-marinated beefsteak and roasted poblano guacamole with garlic and parsley.
Best for: those who cook not just to eat, but also to learn about people, places and things."
— Carolyn Jung, SAN JOSE MERCURY NEWS
"THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page promises 'cooking with the best of flavors and techniques from around the world.' The authors are James Beard Award winners. They have collected more than 100 recipes and insights from a stellar range of chefs and food writers, including Mario Batali, Alain Ducasse and Paula Wolfert. The focus is on 10 cuisines: Chinese, French, Indian, Italian, Japanese, Mexican, Moroccan, Spanish, Thai and Vietnamese. The result: a feast of food lore with the promise of much good eating."
— Janet K. Keeler, ST. PETERSBURG TIMES
"I'm about halfway through the new book and loving it. It's clear, concise, neatly structured, extremely informative — and a fun read, besides. I can see it being a great, great resource for both my cooking and my writing."
— Todd Kliman, WASHINGTON CITY PAPER
Favorite food and/or health related book?
A. The Bhagavad-Gita (a great book on the science of life) and whatever cookbook I am reading at the moment — presently, THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF by Dornenburg and Page and Craft of Cooking by Tom Colicchio."
— Richard LaMarita, NATURAL GOURMET COOKING SCHOOL
"Wonderful insights on ten international cuisines and recipes to match."
— Natalie MacLean, NATALIEMACLEAN.COM
"The cream of the crop of this year's best cookbooks ....Authors Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page tapped the knowledge and recipes of top chefs — Rick Bayless, Daniel Boulud, Alain Ducasse, Julie Sahni and Piero Selvaggio, among them — for lessons in 10 popular cuisines for THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking With the Best of Flavors and Techniques From Around the World."
— Marilynn Marter, PHILADELPHIA INQUIRER (12/11/03)
"A cookbook that is more than a cookbook is Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page's THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking with the Best of Flavors and Techniques from Around the World (Wiley, $29.95). Andrew runs a catering service in New York City and Karen, who has an MBA from Harvard, runs a consulting business when she is not co-authoring a book with Andrew. The book is as much a travel and philosophy book as it is replete with recipes from famous chefs and restaurants representing the ten countries he cites. So from Japan, Spain, France, Italy, China, Thailand, India, Vietnam, Morocco and Mexico, the reader/cook is taught how to expand his or her repertoire. I did assure Andrew, when we taped, that when it came to the United States, in New York City I head for a steak at Gallagher's on West 52nd Street. Medium rare. L.A. Chief of Police Bill Bratton and his wife, Rikki Klieman, hosted a cocktail party for their friends, Andrew and Karen, at the Maple Restaurant on Maple Drive in Beverly Hills. It was a gourmet experience to see and taste one chef show off his best for another chef. My tongue is still thanking me."
— Connie Martinson, THE BEVERLY HILLS COURIER
"THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF (John Wiley and Sons Inc., $29.95) by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page (winners of the James Beard Award for Best Writing on Food for BECOMING A CHEF) is the result of consulting with top chefs and cookbook authors, who reveal the essence of 10 popular cuisines, including Indian, Moroccan and Vietnamese. Not only a cookbook, this is a one-volume cooking school that delves into the techniques, sources, flavors and fundamentals for serious students of the philosophy of food and cooking."
—Metro Times Detroit (April 19, 2006)
"This book (THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF) is phenomenal."
— Pat Miller, "The Gabby Gourmet" on KHOW Radio
"L.A. power couple Bill Bratton and Rikki Klieman, the police chief and his Court TV wife, joined L.A. Confidential magazine to throw a book party for their friends, kitchen power couple — he cooks; she writes — Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. Their new cookbook is cumbersomely but multiculturally titled THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking with the Best of Flavors and Techniques from Around the World. Chef, chief — what's a vowel's difference among friends?"
— Patt Morrison, THE LOS ANGELES TIMES "Inside Politics" (March 29, 2004)
Confucius is quoted as saying in Chapter 5, 'The enjoyment
of food is one of the things that contributes to the peace
and harmony of a society.' Indeed, good, healthy food is a
main factor in the happiness of a person. Preparing good
food is an act of love, which comes through on every page
of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF."
— Dr. Robert Muller, Retired Asst.
Secretary General of the United Nations, Nobel Peace Prize
nominee, and author of 6000 Ideas and Dreams for a Better
"Going for Original: It's not as hard as you think to skip the mall and get one-of-a-kind gifts. Why are we still reading cookbooks at this point? We've covered all the basics. Our omelettes are second to none, our sauces taste like nectar. We're dab hands at sauté work. We can braise with the best of 'em. And still the cascade of cookbooks continues. For me, they're a continuing source of inspiration and, yes, education. I'm rarely interested in what this or that celebrity has to say about food, and I'm especially wary of the glut of Food Network celebs. The best of the books that have appeared this year remain food-centered, and are more than mere recipe lists....Travel from the home to the professional kitchen with THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page (John Wiley & Sons), writers who earlier ventured into the restaurant business in BECOMING A CHEF and DINING OUT. The thesis in their new book is that 10 influential cuisines-Chinese, French, Indian, Italian, Japanese, Mexican, Moroccan, Spanish, Thai and Vietnamese-impart important lessons in dealing with food and cooking, and each cuisine has several noted chefs offering insights and sharing recipes. The comparisons are dramatic."
— B.A. Nilsson, METROLAND HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE (Holidays 2003)
"Karen Page (WCAS83) of New York City co-wrote two new books with her chef-husband, Andrew Dornenburg — THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking with the Best of Flavors and Techniques from Around the World and a new edition of BECOMING A CHEF."
— NORTHWESTERN PERSPECTIVE (Spring 2004)
"I've been walking around with CULINARY ARTISTRY under my arm for years, and now I'm loving THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF. These are my two favorites of your books."
— Adrienne O'Callaghan, who was introduced to us by a professional colleague as "the best food stylist in Vancouver"
their latest treatise on the culinary profession, Andrew
Dornenburg and Karen Page provide an invaluable reference while satisfying our hunger for learning more about America's
most consuming passion."
— Patrick O'Connell, chef-owner, The Inn at
Little Washington in VA
"Police Chief Bill Bratton and his TV-lawyer spouse, Rikki Klieman, hosted a book party last week in Beverly Hills. The Brattons hosted the event along with L.A. Confidential magazine for Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, the husband-wife authors of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking with the Best of Flavors and Techniques from Around the World."
— Rick Orlow, LOS ANGELES DAILY NEWS (March 28, 2004)
"READER ADVISORY: The following story contains explicit, mouth-watering descriptions of foods that may not be appropriate for low-carb dieters. Reader discretion is advised....AMERICAN: Chicken and dumplings: The ultimate comfort food, this simple dish made with vegetables and chicken stock epitomizes country home cooking. 'It has that wonderful savory aroma that takes the chill off you,' says Andrew Dornenburg, co-author of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF. CHINESE: Soup dumplings: Often called 'soupy buns.' If you don't know how to eat these little suckers, they'll squirt all over you. Pick up with chopsticks (try not to poke a hole), eat the top off, drink the soup, and eat the rest. 'Part of the fun is the experience and not just the flavor,' says Dornenburg. There are countless numbers of dumplings in Chinese cuisine, including pork buns, wontons (filled pockets of dough served fried or in soup), and shumai (small, steamed dumplings with meat or seafood fillings. They are often served as a Japanese appetizer, but their origin is China, says Karen Page, co-author of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF). They all belong in the dim sum / small appetizer family."
— Eunnie Park, THE MIAMI HERALD (April 11, 2004), and THE HACKENSACK (NJ) RECORD (March 10, 2004)
"MAPLE DRIVE HOSTS BOOK PARTY: Rikki Klieman, Lenore Zann, John Savage, L.A. Police Chief Bill Bratton, Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg celebrate the new cookbook by kitchen 'power couple' Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. The book, THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking with the Best of Flavors and Techniques from Around the World, is fast becoming a best-seller. 345 North Maple Drive, 310-274-9800. [Click link to view photo by Howard Childs.] "
— Cecil Pennyfeather, THE BEVERLY HILLS COURIER
and Page seek out — and offer — some of the best advice
on pairing food and wines we've seen. Readers should
expect imaginative and unexpected match-ups: Sherry
and Cava for main courses; Pinot Noirs for tandoori. Relaxed, fun and to the point."
— WINE ENTHUSIAST magazine
"The Book and The Cook: Restaurant Series — Thursday, March 18, 2004: Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg at Bleu, Sheraton Rittenhouse Square, 227 S. 18th St.; 215-545-0342. The authors of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF have planned a menu with executive chef Gerald Dougherty."
— THE PHILADELPHIA INQUIRER (February 5, 2004)
"CULINARY PROS NOMINATE COOKBOOKS: The International Association of Culinary Professionals has announced the finalists in 12 categories in its annual cookbook awards. The awards will be presented April 24 at the IACP's conference in Baltimore, where one will be named the 'Best Cookbook of the Year.' The nominees: * Chefs and Restaurants: The Balthazar Cookbook, Keith McNally, Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson; Bistro Cooking at Home, Gordon Hamersley with Joanne McAllister Smart; THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking with the Best of Flavors and Techniques from Around the World, Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page....More than 380 books were entered. A jury of 36 culinary professionals, including food writers, cookbook authors, and newspaper and magazine food editors, evaluated the books and tested scores of recipes before arriving at the list of finalists."
— PITTSBURGH POST-GAZETTE
"Book of the Month for the Vicarious Eating:
The latest work from the authors of Chef's Night Out, THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF is a treat for the gastropornographer in us all. More than an insider's feast of the pro cooking world, THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF offers simple secrets to serious cooking technique along with a collection of chop-licking recipes."
— Amy Reiley, LIFEOFREILEY.COM
"Hot Off the Press: THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. These culinary authors tend to revolutionize any subject they sink their teeth into. Learn to cook with international ingredients from ten cuisines accompanied by lessons and recipes from master chefs."
— Barbara Revsine & Judy Webster, LOCAL PALATE
"HOLIDAY CHEER: Distinctive Books by Chefs and Experts May Find a Place Under the Tree — In looking for books to recommend on cooking and wine this fall, I found myself attracted to several that are not in the familiar (and much loved) recipe-heavy mold. Therefore you might want to file such mostly-for-reading books as THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF under 'food for the mind.'"
— William Rice, THE CHICAGO TRIBUNE
"An all-star lineup of cookbook authors, past and present, convenes to discuss the slow-cooking technique called braising....In our ongoing commitment to dispensing culinary lore, the Good Eating section today presents a seminar with great cooks discussing an important cooking technique. Since some of our participants are dead and some alive, it seems fair to level the playing field by asking each of them to speak through a book...Therefore, please greet James Beard, Daniel Boulud (from THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF), Julia Child, Madeleine Kamman, James Peterson, Joel Robuchon, and Irma S. [and Marion] Rombauer. An unnamed journalist will moderate."
— William Rice, THE CHICAGO TRIBUNE
COOKBOOK GIFT LIST:
"THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking with the Best Flavors and Techniques from Around the World by Andrew Dornenburg & Karen Page: The brightest star chefs, people from The Food Network shows and America's most talented cookbook authors contribute 100 international recipes, including ones from Japan, Italy, Spain, France, China, India, Mexico, Thailand, Vietnam and Morocco. Dornenburg and Page are New Yorkers, married and winners of a James Beard award for food writing."
— Bart Ripp, THE NEWS TRIBUNE (Tacoma, WA)
"THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF tackles culinary confusion: Making sense of the jumble of culinary styles and perspectives that populate the restaurant marketplace these days seems like an impossible task. Every chef, every restaurant seems emboldened to maintain its own unique 'take' on food. Attempts to tack working labels onto this polyglot babble of flavors and techniques has, at best, resulted in strange phrasings like 'Franco-Japanese' and 'Floribbean.' A team of two young authors has, however, developed an interesting way of conceptualizing cookery, one that just might bring order to all this confusion. In their book THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF, Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page describe what they call the 'Culinary Compass.' It's a scheme that sorts out culinary thinking along two primary dimensions. The first Dornenburg and Page label 'West to East.' It represents the spectrum of the world's traditional cuisines — Japanese, Chinese, French, Italian, Mexican, and others. Each of these cuisines has, of course, evolved an array of ingredients, techniques and traditions that have been validated by centuries of practice. Dornenburg and Page point out that most chefs have a traditional cuisine with which they're most comfortable, either as a result of nurture — they grew up on it — or by choice, perhaps as the result of a formative professional experience. That cuisine becomes a point of reference, a native culinary language, that becomes an integral part of the chef's personal style. The second dimension the Culinary Compass uses to categorize cooking perspectives is something Dornenburg and Page call 'point of view.' That spectrum captures the spirit with which a culinarian reveres — or defies — tradition. At one extreme a chef may be a purist, using only the most authentic of ingredients and techniques. It's an approach that pays homage to cooking regionally and seasonally, respecting the 'rules' that arose from trial and error that spanned generations. Experimentation is this dimension's opposite extreme. It's the state of affairs in which chefs defy convention and ignore established harmonies. The results can be sometimes breathtaking, occasionally disastrous. The lodestar of experimentation is to create what chef Jean-Georges Vongenrichten, who is a leading practitioner of the philosophy, describes as 'the new flavors of the future.' Dornenburg and Page also identify a third dimension, one they characterize as measuring a dish's effectiveness at being 'delicious.' At its very best, they suggest, food should not only please the tongue, but move the heart. THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF, by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, is published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. "
— Hugh Robert, THE REPUBLICAN (April 29, 2004)
"Here's another way that Bill Bratton is unlike any previous Los Angeles police chief. Last week, writes Rick Orlov in the Daily News, Bratton and his wife Rikki Klieman hosted a book party in Beverly Hills: 'The Brattons hosted the event along with L.A. Confidential magazine for Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, the husband-wife authors of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking with the Best of Flavors and Techniques from Around the World.' It also made Patt Morrison's 'Inside Politics' column in the Times."
— Kevin Roderick, L.A. OBSERVED (March 29, 2004)
NEW AMERICAN CHEF is a groundbreaking work.
It redefines and brings into sharp focus what is happening
food-wise in America today. The book is filled with
expert teaching and an abundance of mouth-watering recipes. The Dynamic Duo of Dining has once again brought a fresh,
vital and immensely interesting work to the kitchen table."
— Michael Romano, chef-partner, Union Square
Cafe in New York
"[Tonight's guests] are three people who know everything about food: Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, and Dennis Ray Wheaton....Andrew and Karen have written a wonderful new book called THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF...."
— Milt Rosenberg, Extension 720 on WGN RADIO / Chicago
"My guests today are Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page ....They're very prolific writers whose fifth book is THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF, which is like a textbook on 10 different cuisines — except that it's fun to read. Their books are extremely popular among, and indeed essential to, chefs in America."
— Arthur Schwartz, "Food Talk" on WOR Radio
the great chefs they write about, Andrew Dornenburg and Karen
Page bring to their work infectious enthusiasm, endless curiosity,
and expansive knowledge. The breadth and depth of their
passion makes this book at once a vivid education in the
great cuisines of the world and a continuous treat
— Tony Schwartz, New York Times bestselling
co-author of The Power of Full Engagement and author
of What Really Matters
FABULOUS FOODS' Top Ten Book Picks of 2003: "#2) THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: This fabulous new book by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page (who wrote another of our favorite books, CHEF'S NIGHT OUT) puts its finger firmly on the pulse of contemporary American cuisine. With the philosophy that you must understand and respect the underlying principles of any cuisine before you can begin breaking the rules and creating exciting fusion dishes, the book takes you on a gastronomic tour of the world including Japan, Italy, Spain, France, China, India, Mexico, Thailand, Vietnam and Morocco.
With 100 recipes and content from some of America's most respected and innovative chefs and cookbook authors, you'll not only learn to make some great recipes, but will also get advice on how to taste, what to read, where to shop and where to dine for some of the best food in the country. Informative sidebars give lots of practical tips to help you make the most of the recipes, along with wine pairing advice.
This book is fun and educational to read as much as it is to cook with. Anyone who considers themselves a 'foodie' will want to have this invaluable reference in their libraries. Because America is such a melting pot, it makes sense to explore the culinary roots of our cuisine. Why not explore with some of the culinary world's greatest stars like Mario Batali, Rick Bayless, Daniel Boulud, Susan Feniger, Mary Sue Milliken, Jean-Georges Vongerichen and many, many more?"
— Cheri Sicard, www.fabulousfoods.com
"THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking with the Best of Flavors and Techniques from Around the World by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page explores ten cuisines, with the help of Mario Batali, Daniel Boulud, Zarela Martinez, Paula Wolfert, Alain Ducasse, Rick Bayless, and many others. Great pics, tons of recipes, the usual first-rate work from Dornenburg and Page."
— Charlie Suisman, MANHATTAN USER'S GUIDE or visit www.manhattanusersguide.com
"Chef or ethnic cookbooks can be ticket to another world:
Today's holiday gift column covers two subjects that have become staples of the cookbook industry: books by or about chefs and books on ethnic cuisine. Both take you on a trip into another world....THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking With the Best of Flavors and Techniques From Around the World. This is the fifth book from the team of Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, whose first book, BECOMING A CHEF, made history in the professional culinary world. This book's thesis is that a dish won't work just because the parts sound good together. Therefore, before you try to fly on your own, learn the essence of other cuisines. They selected 10 countries: Japan, Italy, Spain, France, China, India, Mexico, Thailand, Vietnam and Morocco. Subjects include - Italy: procuring the best ingredients; France: Western classical techniques and savoir faire. It's sure to be another hit."
— Marion Sullivan, CHARLESTON POST AND COURIER
"They've been called the 'Dynamic Duo of Dining'...and every time they sit down to write a new book, two things happen: First, they create a whole new genre of food writing, which started with their first book BECOMING A CHEF and which they also did with my personal favorite DINING OUT; and second, that book goes on to win at least one major cookbook award....Congratulations on your nomination for the 2004 IACP Cookbook Award for THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF."
— Pat Tanner, host, "Dining Today" on WHWH Radio / 1350 AM (Princeton, NJ)
"'Apply the six-month rule,' suggests Andrew Dornenburg, co-author of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking With the Best Flavors and Techniques From Around the World. 'Wait six months before you try the restaurant of the moment; it takes that long for it to get up to speed.' And what about the more-established places? 'Google them,' says Dornenburg's co-author, Karen Page. 'Word of mouth is fine, but dining out is not only about food; you can enhance your experience by educating yourself about a restaurant's history, location, clientele, as well as their menu to make sure it is exactly what you enjoy'."
— Richard Torregrossa, THE SAN DIEGO UNION TRIBUNE
"I was at the IACP Award nominations this evening. Congratulations on your nomination for THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF."
— Corinne Trang, author, Essentials of Asian Cuisine (March 22, 2004)
"Fast-food icon's first franchise opened 49 years ago Thursday: By some estimates, 7% to 10% of the American work force first worked at McDonald's. Here are a few notables: Andrew Dornenburg, chef and James Beard Award-winning author (with wife Karen Page) of five acclaimed culinary books, including THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF. He worked at a McDonald's in the mid-1970s, when 'the Filet-O-Fish Sandwich was the most exotic thing on the menu.' He notes: 'Having my first job at McDonald's definitely taught me how to get organized in the kitchen, and to work fast and as part of a team. It taught me the importance of a clean kitchen and good work habits.' [Other notables cited include Shania Twain, Pink and Jeff Bezos.]"
— Jan Uebelherr, MILWAUKEE JOURNAL SENTINEL
"Another remarkable book by Dornenburg and Page! Through numerous
interviews with experts, THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF provides insights into the basic concepts of ten different
cuisines. This book is enlightening for both the amateur
and the professional chef."
— Karen & David Waltuck,
co-owners, Chanterelle in New York City
"THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF, by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. D&P are two of the best food writers on the scene right now. This time out, they're tackling the key techniques and flavors of ten different cuisines from around the world. The title is misleading; the book is really about the cornerstones of fusion cooking, the sense being that if a chef/cook doesn't know the fundamentals of the base cuisines, that chef/cook will never create anything worth remembering, and instead serve car wrecks like spaghetti with kiwi sauce. Lots of interviews with chefs who know their stuff, as usual."
— S. Woody White
"THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF is a wonderful book...It's already been cited as one of the year's best cookbooks...A remarkable achievement...[by] two culinarians who have really put themselves on the map."
— Pierre Wolfe, host, "America's Dining & Travel Guide"
"The fifth book by husband-and-wife team Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF addresses how essential international flavors and techniques are in today's American kitchen. The authors believe that the widespread accessibility of exotic ingredients and desire to learn authentic cooking techniques has actually outpaced American cooks' understanding of how to successfully integrate both ingredients and skills in cooking. As a result, Dornenburg and Page interviewed [dozens of] chefs who give lessons on cooking techniques and cultural history and recommend ingredients in Japanese, Italian, Spanish, French, Chinese, Indian, Mexican, Thai, Vietnamese, and Moroccan cuisine....Chefs can benefit from learning what is unique and important about each cuisine, and then practice recipes exemplifying the above."
— Melanie Wolkoff, CHEF magazine (January 2004)
"Congratulations to the members of Women Chefs & Restaurateurs who were recently named as finalists for the 2004 IACP Cookbook Awards! The finalists were announced at a reception in New York City on Monday, March 22, 2004...IACP Cookbook Awards — WCR's Finalists:
- Chefs and Restaurants Category: California Table Grape Commission Award — Karen Page (with Andrew Dornenburg), THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF: Cooking With The Best of Flavors and Techniques from Around the World."
— WOMEN CHEFS & RESTAURATEURS - www.womenchefs.org
"Innovation firmly rooted in tradition is creating the 'new American' cuisine. This cookbook serves up the secrets of 10 popular global cuisines, inviting experienced chefs and adventurous amateurs on a virtual journey through the kitchens that inspire the best chefs in America today. Jacques Pepin, internationally renowned chef, refers to the husband-and-wife team of Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page as 'lions in the kitchen,' who are raising cooking to a new level in America. Winners of a James Beard Award for Best Writing on Food in 1996 for BECOMING A CHEF, this couple has also enjoyed success with their other publications including CULINARY ARTISTRY, DINING OUT, and CHEF'S NIGHT OUT....This book is a tremendous resource for chefs and amateurs alike and has a textbook quality that will make you return to it confidently time and again."
— Karen Wright, NORTH SHORE NEWS (British Columbia)
NEW AMERICAN CHEF offers both the seasoned kitchen
veteran and the novice an approachable guide to the new
guard of global food in America and its influence on today's
— Martin Yan, host, "Yan Can Cook"
In one scene, the titular character (played by Steve Carell) walks into a bookstore to hit on a woman who works there. He passes a section of cookbooks on which THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF is prominently displayed on the top shelf.
—"The 40 Year Old Virgin" movie (opened August 19, 2005)
you tuck into Karen and Andrew's path-breaking portrayal
of the future of American cuisine and its guiding chefs,
look back for a moment at where we came from. It is impossible
to grasp fully an emerging cultural phenomenon without a feel
for its origins. A core component of human culture, cuisines
were born of necessity and contingency — what food
there was and when and how you could get it and prepare it — then shaped through ingenuity, formalized by custom,
and cherished over generations.
"A meal is a physical as well as a cultural event, one
that is repeated tens of thousands of times in a lifetime.
But it is not a permanent cultural thing like Michelangelo's
David. A cuisine must be recreated day after day by its practitioners.
It comes into being before our eyes and palates and then vanishes. Experts
can judge the authenticity of a Velasquez portrait or Shakespearean
sonnet, but how does one evaluate what is becoming authentic
American cuisine in the hands of the newer generations of
chefs? Perhaps it would help to think back to the quintessential
film about coming of age in America, 'The Graduate,' and the
scene where an elder advises Dustin Hoffman that the future
is 'plastics.' That may not be a bogus prediction when
it comes to the New American chefs. Cuisine is a plastic art
in that it is continually remolded and recreated from memory
and recipes and reshaped and invented anew by creative minds. Or
maybe it's plastique, since the international flavors
chefs are incorporating into American cuisine are often explosive.
"I don't know what the 21st century's American cuisine
will look like when it matures. The world is truly at the
kitchen-door steps of American 'FedEx' chefs, for whom locality
and seasonality is diminishing as a constraint on the availability
of the world's finest ingredients — often as chefs
simultaneously celebrate these conditions as virtues in their
culinary aesthetics and menus. It is possible that in a rapidly
changing society, the New American cuisine will never be codified
into a classical, coherent tradition the way cuisines like
French and Chinese or even our own Cajun have been. As Jean-Georges
Vongerichten asserts in these pages, the perfection of new
techniques as well as the adoption of new ingredients may
lead to entirely new flavor experiences. Whatever their inventions
taste like, the coming generations of American chefs will
be plastic in the best sense of the word: their plastic artistic
imaginations giving form and formal expression to this new
cuisine, their food endlessly malleable and pleasurable."
— DENNIS RAY WHEATON, chief dining critic, CHICAGO
While we'd long
since forgotten about it, we were recently reminded of our
letter to the editor of NEWSWEEK in response to a "My
Turn" column on what the writer perceived as a decline
in American cuisine, blamed on the intermingling of ingredients
of different countries, which appeared in the magazine's April
1, 1996 issue:
DO [SOME] DRAW THE line on their insistence that the ingredients
and techniques of different countries remain quarantined?
Imagine where French cuisine would be today if Italian princess
Caterina de Medici had been stopped from taking spinach and
sauce-making expertise along with her when she moved to France
to marry Henri II! Where would Italian cooking be if [some]
had prohibited the importation of tomatoes from their native
Mexico? And think of the loss to American food if Thomas Jefferson
had been barred from bringing home pasta, new fruits and vegetables,
and even ice cream from his European travels. The truth
is that all cuisine is 'fusion' cuisine. The food of
the United States is a function of the history of our country.
Just as we are proud of our history as a 'melting pot' for
the world's people and cultures, we should be proud of the
best of the 'New World' food our diverse population is creating."
DORNENBURG and KAREN PAGE, NEW YORK, N.Y.
(Click here to read an excerpt from
THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF on eGullet.com.)
NEW AMERICAN CHEF
MEDIA INQUIRIES or to request a review copy of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF,
please contact Gypsy Lovett at John Wiley & Sons:
GLovett@wiley.com. To contact the authors directly, click here.
For an evaluation copy of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF,
you can request one online at: http://www.wiley.com/WileyCDA/WileyTitle/productCd-0471363448.html