Award-winning authors of BECOMING A CHEF, CULINARY ARTISTRY, DINING OUT, CHEF'S NIGHT OUT and the 2004 IACP Cookbook Award Finalist THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF
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IN THIS ISSUE:
I. HAIL TO THE CHIEF: Los Angeles Police Chief William J. Bratton & Rikki Klieman
II. DYSLEXIC CHEFS OF AMERICA, UNTIE!
III. WHAT (and WHERE) ANDREW’S COOKING
IV. WHERE WE’RE EATING: Babbo, ‘Cesca and Rocco’s in New York City
V. WHAT WE’RE READING: Ruth Reichl’s Love Letter to Andre Soltner, Nat Decants
VI. OUR SPRING 2004 TRAVEL SCHEDULE: Philadelphia, Los Angeles, Chicago, San Francisco, Houston, Connecticut, DC, Vancouver, Seattle, Boston – Here We Come!
VII. OUR READERS WRITE: Karen’s Diamond Story, Alex Witchel’s Article, and more
I. HAIL TO THE CHIEF: LAPD CHIEF WILLIAM J. BRATTON & RIKKI KLIEMAN
TO HOST OUR LOS ANGELES BOOK PARTY ON WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24TH "Along with August Vollmer and O.W. Wilson, WILLIAM BRATTON will be remembered as one of the three most important police leaders of the 20th century."
–-George L. Kelling, co-author of FIXING BROKEN WINDOWS: Restoring Order and Reducing Crime in Our Communities
"RIKKI KLIEMAN is…one of the nation's five best women attorneys…As a group, they are less like the stereotype of their sex than the stereotype of their job: they are fiercely intelligent, tough-minded, intensely competitive, self-assured individualists who relish the fray."
–-TIME magazine
On Wednesday, March 24th, we will be hosted by "America’s Top Cop" LAPD Chief William J. Bratton and his wife, the distinguished attorney and legal analyst Rikki Klieman, for a book party in Beverly Hills in celebration of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF and the revised edition of BECOMING A CHEF. We’re honored that our dear friends would take time out of their ridiculously busy schedules to toast our two new books!
We are looking forward to having a chance to visit with our Los Angeles-based friends and colleagues (and some of their VIP friends and colleagues) in the food, entertainment and media communities over delicious hors d’oeuvres and glasses of Moet & Chandon! Speaking of which, we’d also like to extend our sincere thanks to Moet & Chandon for their support of our book launch parties in New York City and Los Angeles. [We’ll share details of the party in next month’s e-Newsletter. And we’ll be available for media interviews in Los Angeles on March 24th and 25th –- to schedule, please contact Julia Shannon at CookbookRave@aol.com.]
II. DYSLEXIC CHEFS OF AMERICA, UNTIE! by Andrew Dornenburg
"I don't give a damn for a man that can only spell a word one way."
—Mark Twain
Mark Twain would have loved me: I can come up with an impressive assortment of ways to spell the same word –- most, if not all, considered by everyone but Twain to be wrong. As a dyslexic, in fact, I specialize in misspelling words. It’s one of the things that convinced me years ago that I’d never achieve my dream of becoming a writer.
Twain, like me, was thought to be dyslexic. In fact, experts estimate that as much as 10-20% of the population has some form of dyslexia. Leonardo da Vinci was also thought to be dyslexic. So was Albert Einstein. CEOs ranging from Virgin’s Richard Branson to Cisco’s John Chambers to Charles Schwab have also come out about their dyslexia. Schwab, in fact, runs a very helpful online resource for parents of dyslexic kids at www.SchwabLearning.org, and Kinko’s founder Paul Orfalea is writing a book, SECRETS OF A DYSLEXIC CEO.
Dyslexia makes it tough to learn certain things in the same way that others are able to learn them and, to paraphrase Mark Twain, to remember that one particular way the world has decreed it best to spell a word.
Cooking saved me, in that it is a skill that relies more on the senses than on the ability to spell, and allowed me to learn that seeing things differently can be a plus (such as when coming up with a new dish -- or an innovative concept for a new book!). And since dyslexics tend to be very good at following routines, cooking is an area where we can readily excel.
I decided to talk publicly about my dyslexia in the hope of helping younger people with their own challenges. I was interviewed this past summer by Stacy Poulos for her inspirational Web site on dyslexics throughout history at www.dyslexia.tv, and have since popped up on other lists of "famous dyslexics." While two of Britain’s leading chefs -– Jamie Oliver and Marco Pierre White –- have spoken out about their own struggles with dyslexia, so far I’m the only U.S. chef on those lists. However, I suspect there are many others out there –- so if you are, or know of, another dyslexic chef, please let me know (at Dornenburg@aol.com). Dyslexic kids need our support.
On April 1st, I’ll have the privilege of being the keynote speaker in Belmont, California, at the Charles Armstrong School’s "Success Week," where I’ve been invited to speak to hundreds of students and their parents about how I learned to live with the challenges of being dyslexic. As the School’s usual speakers have been business executives (who have been a bit harder for young kids to relate to), I’ve been told that the kids are really looking forward to it. I look forward to reminding the students of their potential beyond the challenge of dyslexia.
I hope that other chefs will share how they learned to triumph over their own struggles with dyslexia, as I’d love to be able to mention other dyslexic chefs in my remarks. Besides, there is power in numbers. We dyslexic chefs need to "untie"!
III. WHAT (and WHERE!) ANDREW'S COOKING by Andrew Dornenburg
When my teacher and "guiding light" Madeleine Kamman was the recipient of the 1998 James Beard Foundation’s Lifetime Achievement Award, Karen and I were honored to be among the revelers toasting her accomplishments at a rooftop party at the home of a friend of hers in Manhattan’s Chelsea neighborhood. In addition to our delight to share in this extraordinary occasion with this extraordinary woman, we were impressed to be in one of the coolest living spaces we’d ever seen: the roof deck offered a spectacular view of New York City.
Several years later, one of our oldest friends told us excitedly about the incredible Chelsea duplex he’d just purchased, and his description rang a strangely familiar bell. We asked the address, and confirmed that yes, it was one and the same apartment!
I’ve since had the pleasure of cooking there several times, most recently the first weekend in February for London-based clients who are mutual friends of our friend and were in town to introduce their beautiful new daughter to their friends in Manhattan. (My staff got a special kick out of riding up in the elevator with Oscar-winning couple Susan Sarandon and Tim Robbins, who live in the apartment immediately below our friend’s!)
The buffet dinner for 45 featured passed hors d’oeuvres ranging from warm Spanish piquetostes (incredible bites of bitter chocolate on toast points drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkled with fleur de sel) to foie gras with pear chutney. As I chopped my parsley and seared my filet, it was as if Madeleine were looking over my shoulder. Offering a cheese course for 45 people was a bit ambitious, but when a client states that when they die they "want to be buried in Epoisses," it inspires you to deliver! And it’s always a pleasure to re-create pastry chef Dieter Schorner’s never-fail recipe for Tarte Tatin from p. 47 of our book CULINARY ARTISTRY.
Amidst my memories of celebrating with Madeleine, breathtaking views of Manhattan’s skyline, and surroundings so hip they could have served as a setting for "Sex in the City," I’ve found that cooking in special spaces such as this tends to feed me as much as I feed my guests.
IV.WHERE WE'RE EATING: BABBO, ‘CESCA and ROCCO’S – NEW YORK CITY
A glance at our calendar reveals our wide range of culinary cravings: from Niman Ranch pork burritos at Chipotle Mexican Grill to chicken tikka masala take-out from Curry in a Hurry, from a Cuban sandwich at Amy’s Bread to veggie burgers at Zen Palate. Yet last month over a 10-day period, we experienced three uniquely memorable takes on Italian food in Manhattan:
BABBO
110 Waverly Place (bet. MacDougal and Sixth Ave.)
New York City
(212) 777-0303
www.babbonyc.com
When we invited a colleague to dinner to thank her for a job well done, we made a reservation at BABBO, where she’d never been. This gave the three of us an opportunity to enjoy an evening of "Mario Batali’s Greatest Hits" (each of which is great indeed!): from the testa to the gnocchi with oxtail to the "Sicilian Lifeguard Calamari" -- and even wine from the Bastianich family vineyard, which co-owner Joe Bastianich had turned us on to on a previous visit. Afterward, we found ourselves before a tableful of pastry chef Gina DePalma’s amazing desserts, each bite convincing us yet again that, to our palates, she is the best pastry chef in New York City and certainly one of the very best in America.
What a killer dinner! As we emailed Mario in our note of thanks the next day, "No one can touch the food or the ambiance of Babbo. It's hard to say which is better: Babbo’s incredible calamari and pastas and desserts, or the incredible pleasure of getting to enjoy all of them while listening to The Doors and The Rolling Stones!"
‘CESCA
164 W. 75th St. (near Amsterdam Ave.)
New York City
(212) 787-6300
After catching a performance of Bill Boggs’ entertaining one-man show "Talk Show Confidential" with some friends, we stopped in for dinner around the corner at ‘CESCA, Tom Valenti’s new restaurant on the Upper West Side. We have been fans of Tom’s cooking since his days at Cascabel and more recently Ouest, and were happy to feature him (along with chef Terrance Brennan) last year in a segment of our show "Chef’s Night Out" on where leading chefs like to dine on their nights off.
‘Cesca has it all: an elegant room, sharp service, and interesting wines by the glass. We loved the Monday night special of meatloaf served with marinara sauce. However, one particular dish made conversation come to a halt, and spurred a round of "Mmmm"s and "Ohmygod"s: a hot appetizer of roasted mushrooms with polenta and farmers cheese. It was good enough to make you wish the groundhog would see its shadow so you could have six more weeks of winter to eat this dish and shake off the cold!
ROCCO’S
12 E. 22nd St. (bet. Broadway and Park Ave. So.)
New York City
(212) 535-0500
www.roccosrestaurant.com
It seems that everyone has an opinion of ROCCO’S, whether they’ve dined there or simply watched Rocco DiSpirito’s hit TV show on NBC. Now, after finally visiting "the restaurant," we have ours: Lunch there was absolutely wonderful!
With our dear friend Rikki Klieman visiting from Los Angeles, we slipped in on a recent Friday afternoon before her flight home. We basically put ourselves in Rocco’s Mamma’s hands (which are as strong as any chef’s hands we have ever shaken!) by ordering Mamma’s Meatballs and "What Mamma Likes" Manicotti. The meatballs lived up to all the hype: They had a smooth texture and were not the least bit heavy. The manicotti was impossibly light and flavorful. Rikki’s Chicken Under a Brick had a skin as crackling as a creme brulee, and the meat was juicy with great rosemary flavor. After wishing the guest of honor at the table next to ours a Happy Birthday, Mamma even stopped by our table to say hello –- and didn’t leave before giving Rikki a kiss on the cheek!
We already look forward to enjoying the food at Rocco’s -- and seeing Mamma! -- again soon.
There are more restaurant recaps on our Web site, so you can pay a visit to check out what else is new at: http://www.becomingachef.com/restaurants.php.
V. WHAT WE'RE READING
"Last night, after 43 years of charming its guests with an onion tart so light it seemed held together by a wish, delicate mousselines of pike and proud soufflés that collapsed with a sigh, Manhattan's much-loved Lutèce closed its doors on its final customer…"
--Ruth Reichl, The New York Times (2/15/04)
* Did you catch GOURMET editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl’s beautiful ode to Lutece and Andre Soltner -- "Our Dinners with Andre" -- in The New York Times on February 15th in honor of Lutece’s closing? Her love letter spoke for all New Yorkers. Thank you, Ruth. And thank you, Andre!
* Wine lovers will enjoy checking out wine expert Natalie MacLean’s Web site www.nataliemaclean.com. She also publishes the entertaining and informative e-newsletter NAT DECANTS which was named one of the three best e-newsletters of the year by the James Beard Foundation. You can sign up for a FREE subscription at www.nataliemaclean.com or e-mail natdecants@nataliemaclean.com.
VI. OUR SPRING 2004 TRAVEL SCHEDULE
From being invited to moderate a panel discussion [with the legendary RW Apple of THE NEW YORK TIMES and Bill Rice of THE CHICAGO TRIBUNE] on "The Future of Dining" for Relais & Chateaux’s North American Relais Gourmand conference in Chicago, to being asked to judge New York Fleet Week’s "Best Chow" competition, we look forward to expanding our already-broad view of the what comprises the best of American cooking. We hope to have the pleasure of seeing you during our travels:
March 16: NEW JERSEY / Kings Cooking Studio
March 17-18: PHILADELPHIA / The Book & The Cook at Bleu restaurant
March 23-25: LOS ANGELES / Our Book Party in Beverly Hills
March 28-29: CHICAGO / Relais & Chateaux’s Relais Gourmands Conference
April 1-4: SAN FRANCISCO / Charles Armstrong School "Success Week" keynote
April 15-16: PHILADELPHIA / Viking Range / "A Chef’s Table" on WHYY
April 17: NEW JERSEY / Wegmans in Woodbridge & Princeton
April 20-22: CHICAGO / "Culinary Artistry" at The Spice House / Chicagourmets dinner
April 25-27: SAN FRANCISCO / Draeger’s
April 28-30: HOUSTON / Ft. Bend Food & Wine Affair keynote speakers
May 1-2: CONNECTICUT / The Silo
May 4-5: WASHINGTON, DC / The Smithsonian Institution / Café Atlantico
May 19-20: VANCOUVER / Barbara-Jo’s Books for Cooks
May 21-23: SEATTLE / Cascadia Culinary Arts Conference keynote speakers
May 30: NEW YORK / Celebrity Judges for Fleet Week’s "Best Chow" Competition
June 3-6: BOSTON / TBA
Please check out our Web site for details at www.becomingachef.com/news_and_events.php.
MEDIA: We’re happy to schedule media interviews during our travels; to do so, please contact Julia Shannon at CookbookRave@aol.com. If you’re a member of the media and would like to request a review copy of our new books THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF or BECOMING A CHEF, please contact Brenda Blot at John Wiley & Sons at bblot@wiley.com.
VII. OUR READERS WRITE:
"Keep up the awesome work. Saying prayers for you."
—Dr. Judi Bowman, motivational author and AME minister — who performed Andrew and Karen's marriage ceremony 14 years ago next month! FYI, there's a photo from our wedding day here.
OUR READERS WRITE: Karen’s Diamond Story, Alex Witchel’s Article, and more
We’re delighted that our e-Newsletter has nearly 3700 hundred subscribers from in and around the world of food, and is growing daily! (FYI, due to an unfortunate technical glitch, most of those who entered a new subscription within the past month are probably not receiving this issue -– so we hope you’ll forward it to your food-and-wine-loving friends!)
Many of you wrote to say that you enjoyed the story of how we were able to locate Karen’s lost diamond after it fell out of her engagement ring with the help of Fahrusha, who was named one of the top dozen psychics in New York by NEW YORK magazine. Since then, the question we’ve received most often has been, "How can I reach Fahrusha?" For the record, she can be reached via email at Fahrusha@fahrusha.com or by phone at (212) 529-4775.
Here’s a taste of your other comments:
"Good to hear from you. At the least, your message resulted in an order of THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF, which I look forward to reading."
—Ned Corman, The Commission Project / Rochester, NY (www.swingnjazz.org)
"Fantastic!"
—Brit Elders, CEO, www.ShirleyMacLaine.com
"We love your e-Newsletter! It's a great compendium. And our son-in-law the cook loves your new cookbook THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF."
—Evelyn Eskin / Philadelphia
"Wonderful! Wonderful! Thanks for keeping me posted. I've been keeping track of all your cooking tomes and look forward to the ‘sequel’ of one of my favorites, CULINARY ARTISTRY. Kudos to both of you and please keep me posted about your future events."
—Sharon Gintzler, Gotham Gourmet / New York
"Thank you for including me in your e-Newsletter mailing. I am a huge fan and own all of your books. CULINARY ARTISTRY is particularly well used. You should start a Web site to compile as many flavor matches as possible. My contribution would be ‘turnip and peanut butter’ as in a Thai soup, or possibly ‘tomato and orange.’ (Try a Screwdriver over a shot of tomato juice.) The list goes on!"
—Tim Harris, Executive Chef of the Canadian Consulate / New York
"Nice work! By the way, BECOMING A CHEF is required reading for all our back-of-house staff."
—Mark Picone, Executive Chef, Vineland Estates Winery Restaurant / Ontario
"Thank you for sending me a copy of your e-Newsletter. I enjoyed it very much."
—Dr. Tim Ryan, President, The Culinary Institute of America / Hyde Park, NY
"Loved your newsletter and the ring story….Will you be in Minneapolis?"
—Deidre Schipani, Manager of Culinary Services, Lunds and Byerly's / Minneapolis
"I particularly enjoyed the part about the psychic (being a total skeptic, but interested) and agreed with your praise of Alex Witchel's story. I have read and enjoyed two of your books as well."
—Diane Stemple, Murray’s Cheese Shop / New York
"How incredible for you to find your diamond! (A little spooky, too!) Here's hoping you'll get that call from the Food Network!"
—Kessa Stevens / Raleigh
"Good read! I love Kaluystan's Masala Cafe -- especially since I now live only a block away!"
—Nina Tao, venture capitalist / New York
"Congratulations –- can't wait to try Masala Café!"
—Jeremiah Tower / Cozumel, Mexico
"Fantastic e-Newsletter, guys!! Way to go...inspiring, intriguing, impressive and well-written!"
—Valerie Vigoda, lead singer of the rock band Groovelily (www.groovelily.com)
"The mention of my piece is just lovely. Thank you."
—Alex Witchel, The New York Times
…and music to every author’s ears:
"Are you available this Sunday for my national show? Please call me."
—Pierre Wolfe, host, America’s Dining and Travel Guide / Denver
THE "JANE GOODALLS OF THE CHEF WORLD"? Speaking of music to our ears, in our January 22nd interview with award-winning radio host Jennifer English on her show "Don’t Talk With Your Mouth Full" on the Food & Wine Radio Network, she very flatteringly referred to us as "[C]ultural anthropologists...They're the Jane Goodalls of the chef world: They've taken us into the jungle, and we've watched the chefs in their native habitat."
Of course, our good friend Susan Butler –- the pioneering head of The Susan Bulkeley Butler Institute for the Development of Women Leaders (www.sbbinstitute.org) in Tucson –- happens to know Jane, and told us she thought Jane would get a kick out of the comparison. Indeed, we received an email from Fred Thompson in Jane Goodall’s office, commenting, "Hilarious! I shall pass this along to Jane, who will really enjoy it."
* * * *
Thank you, as always, for your interest in our work. We welcome your feedback, and look forward to hearing from you at Dornenburg@aol.com.
Delicious wishes,
Andrew & Karen
Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page
527 Third Ave. Suite 130
New York, NY 10016
Phone: (212) 642-5870
Email: Dornenburg@aol.com
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