WHERE WE'RE EATING...in New York City and elsewhere
(Note:  Only recommended restaurants appear in ALL CAPS.)

Andrew and Karen enjoying dinner at
SOLERA restaurant / Health magazine

NOTE: For our most recent restaurant reviews, please visit our Blog here.

The next several photographs that appear are from
our April 8, 2005, dinner at MOTO in Chicago:

Caesar salad amuse at MOTO in Chicago: the romaine
is pureed and freeze-dried into pellets (a la astronaut
ice cream), and served with a Parmesan crouton.

"Sushi Cartoon with Bluefin Toro" features photos of maki
printed on the edible paper which wraps this creation.

Andrew's photo appears on a frozen globe atop apricot and
pink peppercorns set before him....

...and ditto for Karen!

Karen's globe begins to melt, creating the delicioius "Vouvray,
Pink Peppercorn & Apricot" broth for our foie gras course (and
begging for our subsequent imitation of the Wicked Witch of
the West: "I'm melting, I'm melting...").

"Champagne & King Crab": those grapes are fizzy
when you put them in your mouth.

Our waiter brings a steaming pitcher to our table....

...for our course of "French Onion Soup with Quail."

"Lobster with Freshly Squeezed Orange Soda": Andrew's
favorite course, the orange is fizzy and the lobster sublime.

Our bass cooks in a heated polymer box with
an opaque lid in the middle of our table, as
we're presented with spoonfuls of "Artichoke,
Balsamic and Macadamia."

"French Fry Potato Chain Links with Sweet Potato Pie," which
immediately reminded us of Andre Soltner's once telling us that
carving a chain link from a potato was a dying art; indeed, the
cook at MOTO learned the technique from Soltner at the French
Culinary Institute in New York City.

Our waiter pours the "Grilled Tomatillo Broth" over Andrew's
bass course.

"Dry-Aged Beef with Braised Pizza" — the pepper and garlic
clove are there for their aromatic qualities.

"Edible Literature of Explorateur with 100-year-old Balsamico"
(This was the only course we weren't crazy about in our tasting
menu — it was too much text and edible paper for two authors
to relax enough to enjoy eating this!)

"Doughnut Soup": Smelled just like a doughnut, tasted just
like a doughnut. And we love doughnuts.

"Chocolate Cake with Hot Ice Cream"

"French Toast with Hot Blueberry Syrup": After already having
been served chocolate (which we see as the period at the end
of the sentence in menu-speak), we were a bit surprised to get another dessert. This one was very custardy "French toast" with
the world's largest "blueberry."

Homaro Cantu gave us a tour of MOTO's kitchen after dinner

MOTO
945 W. Fulton Market
Chicago
(312) 491-0058
www.motorestaurant.com

On Friday, April 8, 2005, we paid our first visit to Chicago's Moto restaurant. (If we have our way, it won't be our last.) It's a daunting task to write about it, so we're planning to do so in stages. The creations depicted above are the work of chef Homaro Cantu, pastry chef Ben Roche, and their team.

Our first bite of food was a "Caesar salad" on a spoon. Romaine lettuce had been pureed, then freeze-dried into pellets a la "astronaut ice cream." It was served with a rich crouton flavored with Parmesan cheese. Once you put the spoon in your mouth and started to chew its contents, the flavors of a well-chilled Caesar salad came together clearly.

More to come....

As we wrote the above several days ago, and haven't gotten back to this before now, we thought we'd at least add a few more comments to the caption above and share the punchline — by way of what we wrote to a colleague about MOTO the next day:

....The real surprise was our dinner last night at MOTO — which was nearly flawless and endlessly fascinating.  (Harold McGee is rumored to be dining there tonight.)  We have a chip on our shoulders about innovative cuisine because it's too often done so badly — all the emphasis on the "innovative" and not enough on the "cuisine."  Last night was a surprising and exciting
exception.  Even our respective jaded palates were blown away.  We so hated our dinner at [trendy such restaurant in NYC] when [its chef] was there (poorly cooked food, lousy service, crowded tables, etc.) that we haven't been willing to part with our hard-earned $s to go to [its chef's new NYC restaurant in the same vein].  But we were intrigued by the concept of MOTO, held our breath, and dove in...fully expecting us to be complaining this morning about how our idealism (that it could be great) caused us to waste $s and the opp'y for a truly great meal.  But just the opposite — we marvel that a 28-year-old kid is doing this here in Chicago, when we've not tasted anything as impressively
avant-garde in NYC.  We think he's only going to get better with time, and that he's going to break out in a big way -- nationally, internationally -- in the months or years to come.  He seems to be the real deal.

We enjoyed a wondeful lunch at OSTERIA VIA STATO in Chicago the same day we visited Moto:

Is there any warmer welcome for an author than seeing one
of your own books on display with the chef's as you enter?

Sommelier extraordinaire Belinda Chang pours
wines for us to sample at Osteria Via Stato

Our charming waiter Ryan shares the day's specials with us

We were wowed by the risotto with asparagus and a fried
egg on top — as each element was perfectly cooked

Chef David DiGregorio would not let us leave without
tasting his housemade burnt caramel gelato — and
are we ever glad!

OSTERIA VIA STATO
620 N. State Street
Chicago, IL
(312) 642-8450
www.leye.com

When we asked our restaurant critic and/or food writer friends in Chicago where we shouldn't miss on our visit last month, OSTERIA VIA STATO was the restaurant on everyone's list. Indeed, Richard Melman and Rick Tramonto have a new winner under the Lettuce Entertain You umbrella. In addition to chef David DiGregorio's food, the main attraction is the restaurant's innovative "all you care to drink" wine program that accompanies it, overseen by James Beard Award nominee Belinda Chang. Her warmth and exhuberance could make a wine lover out of anyone.

We never miss FRONTERA GRILL on any visit to Chicago:

We shared a platter of appetizers family-style

...and capped off lunch with a selection of desserts!

FRONTERA GRILL
445 N. Clark St.
Chicago, IL
(312) 661-1434
www.fronterakitchens.com

Perhaps there's no more glamorous splurge in Chicago than Champagne and a caviar staircase (or two) at TRU:

TRU
676 N. St. Clair
Chicago, IL
(312) 202-0001

We also had a chance to enjoy the old standby in Greek Town, THE PARTHENON, for saganaki (flaming cheese) and more:

THE PARTHENON
314 S. Halsted
Chicago, IL
(312) 726-2407

We drove to Milwaukee — where our first stop was for frozen custard at the legendary LEON'S:

Leon's was said to inspire the diner shown on "Happy Days"

No visitor should miss dinner at Sandy D'Amato's restaurant SANFORD or lunch at his more casual COQUETTE CAFE:

We tasted a variety of wines and even beer with our desserts

...with a highlight being this caramelized banana tart!

Coquette Cafe serves a lovely quiche with salad...

...that still allows you to save room for oeufs a la neige [a
recipe he learned from master pastry chef Dieter Schorner]!

Our last stop in town was Speed Queen Bar BQ, which has
been cited as one of the 10 best BBQ spots in America

LEON'S
3131 S. 27th Street
Milwaukee, WI
(414) 383-1784
Skip the vanilla, and head straight to the more intensely-flavored chocolate frozen custard.

SANFORD
1547 N. Jackson
Milwaukee, WI
(414) 276-9608
Milwaukee's outstanding fine dining restaurant.

COQUETTE CAFE
316 N. Milwaukee
Milwaukee, WI
(414) 291-2655
Balthazar, Milwaukee-style!

SPEED QUEEN BAR B Q
1130 W. Walnut St.
Milwaukee, WI
(414) 265-2900
We followed the advice of locals, and ordered the rib tips and cole slaw via its expedient drive-through.

The next several photographs that appear are from our April 18, 2005, lunch at THE MODERN in Manhattan:

THE MODERN
at The Museum of Modern Art
9 West 53rd Street (bet. Fifth & Sixth Aves.)
New York, NY
(212) 333-1220

THE MODERN is our new favorite restaurant in New York City. It's the place that immediately comes to mind when out-of-town guests ask us what's really special in Manhattan, or when we're looking to celebrate a birthday with friends. The food is as delicious as it is beautiful!

Chocolatier extraordinaire Marc Varsano

A sampling of hand-dipped selections

VARSANO'S CHOCOLATES
179 W. 4th Street (bet. Sixth & Seventh Aves.)
New York City
(212) 352-1171 or (800) 414-4718
www.varsanos.com

Could we love Varsano's Chocolates any more than we already do? We don't think so. They're a must for anyone passing anywhere near the vicinity of Greenwich Village with a taste for wonderful chocolate. Owner Marc Varsano hand dips chocolates daily. We never even liked chocolate-covered pretzels until we tasted Marc's dark chocolate version! Now, they're a diet staple.

BEPPE
45 E. 22nd St. (bet. B'way & Park Ave. South)
New York City
(212) 982-8422

Manhattan has been drenched with rain for weeks. Karl and Ricky, two friends of a dear friend, come to town, and we're to meet up for dinner on a Friday night. But where? Suddenly, the warm, rustic setting of BEPPE comes to mind, like a beacon: its wood-burning oven, its delicious aromas, and the beans! My God, those beans!

Chef-owner Cesare Casella has created a little slice of Tuscany right here in Manhattan that is the perfect respite from any downpour. The hospitality of the staff, the proximity to the oven, and Cesare's soul-satisfying cuisine are enough to warm even the most chilled-to-the-bone diner on a rainy night. We began the evening with fried zucchini blossoms that had been stuffed with ricotta cheese, batter dipped, and deep fried, served with a tangy tomato sauce on the side. Other highlights ranged from grilled homemade sausage with beans to the Tuscan cowboy-style ribs, served in such a generous portion that the leftovers comprised a satisfying lunch for two today. We sampled many desserts, with a chocolate peanut butter concoction winning Karen's heart and a simple vanilla panna cotta with seasonal berries a favorite of Andrew's.

The selection of Tuscan whites and reds are right on the mark – the red that was recommended to us perfumed the table with jammy fruit as it was poured into each glass. But don't wait for a rainy day to visit BEPPE; it's also one of our very favorite Italian restaurants under the sun. [7/25/04]

IXTA
48 East 29th St.
New York City
(212) 683-4833

There are some people who try to go to every new restaurant the first week it opens. We have never been among them. Every chef knows it takes some time to shake the kinks out of a new place. However, last week we broke this rule because we're such fans of Linda Japngie's cuisine from her days as chef of Jimmy's Downtown that we simply couldn't wait.

Our bet paid off: We can happily report after visiting on the restaurant's second night that the food was terrific. Starting out with the tuna or shrimp ceviche is wonderfully refreshing on a warm night. Also, don't miss the lobster and black bean taquitos, or the roasted wild striped bass with Veracruz salsa – or the Mexican Wedding Cookies for dessert.

The restaurant has a hip design sensibility with fun lighting and flowers. It also has a few tables outside that should make for fun nights of margarita sipping all summer long. The people watching is enjoyable, too. In fact, Karen couldn't get over how much a male guest a few tables away looked like BEPPE chef Cesare Casella – until she embarrassedly realized that it was in fact Cesare and his Wall Street Journal reporter wife Eileen Daspin! [5/14/04]

THE INTREPID SEA, AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM
Pier 86
46th St. & 12th Ave.
New York City
(212) 245-0072
www.intrepidmuseum.org

There are some unspoken rules of dining that food lovers have learned (usually the hard way) over the years: Beware dining any place with a great view, without a kitchen, on a boat, or where several hundred people are being served at once. That's why we'd title our February 11th dinner on the Intrepid with featured speakers Gary Sinese, Joe Torre, and Richard Myers, Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, as the “Against-All-Odds dinner.”

We had the pleasure and privilege of being guests of Col. Tom Tyrrell, USMC (Ret.), the Intrepid's CEO, at the Intrepid Foundation's 12th annual “Salute to Freedom” dinner. Docked on the Hudson River, the Intrepid provided a movie-quality view of the New York City skyline as well as of the Concorde, which in its retirement has found a new home there. The event served 1000 people from a kitchen created on site by Restaurant Associates – which earned our applause not only by donating its services for the evening but by pulling off one of the toughest feats in catering: doing the impossible, and doing it well.

After the cocktail hour, guests sat down to an amuse bouche of a single poached shrimp with cocktail sauce in a shot glass. This was followed by an entree of medium-rare steak, mashed sweet potatoes garnished with a crispy plantain chip, and perfectly-cooked broccoli. Dessert brought smiles (and a little competition) to the table: silver tiered trays of petits fours, from little fruit tartlets to miniature chocolate cupcakes topped with whipped cream.

The wine flowed freely – literally, as it also turned out to be donated (thanks to the generosity of Allied Domecq Spirits USA). As for service, it was better than at some multi-starred restaurants we've visited.

Whether “hawks or doves” (and we met both that night), those attending this event – including us – were wowed by the impressive talents of Restaurant Associates and the spectacular setting of the Intrepid as one of the best party sites imaginable in New York City. We salute you! –Andrew Dornenburg [2/19/04]

CHIKALICIOUS
203 E. 10th St. (at Second Ave.)
New York City
(212) 995-9511
www.chikalicious.com

A friend of ours invited us down to her East Village neighborhood yesterday afternoon so she could treat us to afternoon dessert at ChikaLicious. If you'll envision a stark white tiny jewel box of a sushi bar that perfectly sets off the service of only precious, perfect dessert items (there's no savory food served here) and beverages (from French press coffee to tea to tiny glasses of dessert wine), you'll have some idea of what a unique and special place ChikaLicious is. The prix fixe menu consists of an amuse, a choice of dessert, and post-dessert petit fours ($12). If you'd like a glass of wine paired to go with your menu (which we recommend), it's an additional $7. When we sat down, we were each served a tiny spoon filled with an "adult chocolate" mousse-like pudding. "What makes it adult chocolate?" we asked our waiter Don (Tillman), who also turned out to be a co-owner with the restaurant's namesake Chika (Tillman) and her co-pastry chef Donna (Ryan). "It's expensive chocolate," he replied with a huge smile. It was the perfect start to the perfect dessert experience that followed. Turns out the chocolate wasn't even our promised "amuse," but just an extra "teaser": The amuse was just a few bites of perfect lime sorbet over perfectly ripe, perfectly diced fresh mango. Among the three of us, Karen ordered the Fromage Blanc Island "Cheese Cake" while Andrew had the Warm Chocolate Tart with Pink Peppercorn Ice Cream and Red Wine Sauce, and our friend the Chocolate Baba au Rhum with Coconut Sorbet and Banana Salad. Each of us loved what we ordered, and loved our tastes of the others' desserts – not to mention the taste and appearance of the tiny, perfect petit fours that followed. No wonder we hear it's absolutely jamming from 8-12 midnight – so do as we did and stop by after it opens at 3 pm, when you just might have the place to yourself! [2/13/04]

GILBERT'S
327 Wrigley Drive
Lake Geneva, Wisconsin
(262) 248-6680
www.gilbertsrestaurant.com

Gilbert's sits on Lake Geneva in a stunning Victorian house overlooking a beautiful garden (designed by the chef's mother-in-law) that also provides the restaurant's herbs. Sitting in the front dining room, you can (depending on the season) watch the leaves change on the rolling hills along the lake or watch boats sail on the water in summer or the ice in winter. When you dine at Gilbert's, it is helpful to know that chef Ken Hilno spent time living in Hawaii and has married these experiences to his Midwest location. The decor features pineapple accents and tropical prints on the walls. Knowing this context, the tasting menu seems less quirky and the voice of a reflective integrated cook. In some courses, you will taste hints of the South Pacific and Asian spices. Yet somehow this will seemlessly lead into a dish that reflects the sense of place of the countryside. One of the highlights of the tasting menu was a seared steak course: The meat had an amazing brightness to its flavor. (We later learned that it was organic and raised just a few miles away.) We loved Gilbert's food, service, and rooms lit with fireplaces. A special and thoughtful touch is the play oom for children upstairs away from the dining room. This enables parents to relax and enjoy a meal without worrying about the kids being able to do the same. –Andrew Dornenburg [2/04 e-Newsletter]

MARIA MORREALE
(212) 529-5462
maria_morreale@hotmail.com

Maria Morreale is the best-kept secret of some of Manhattan's most gorgeous restaurants and homes. Over the years, her floral creations have added color and natural beauty to the ambiance of dining rooms all around town, from Ouest to Veritas. Here's an even better-kept secret: You don't have to be a restaurant to avail yourself of one of New York's best florists! Maria is available to serve private clients as well, and works with almost any budget (from $100 on up) to create works of art from blooming branches and flowers. [2/5/04]

EL PARADOR
325 E. 34th Street
(212) 679-6812

One of the problems with trying a new restaurant is that it's always a roll of the dice. Unlike a play that's presented anew each night but at least follows the same script, people's experiences at the same restaurant can vary dramatically. Like most food lovers, we think there are few things as disappointing as a bad meal. Even worse can be bad or indifferent service. Several years ago on a Sunday afternoon, we wandered into Toukie's, the now-shuttered restaurant owned by Robert DeNiro's ex-girlfriend Toukie Smith. We walked through the door, and Toukie herself threw her arms around our necks and gave us huge kisses on our cheeks. "Welcome to Toukie's!" she exclaimed. While perhaps not to everyone's taste, we remember it fondly as the warmest welcome we've ever received at a restaurant where they didn't know us from Adam. Last night, we stopped in for appetizers and margaritas before catching a movie at the Kips Bay Loews at EL PARADOR, Manhattan's oldest Mexican restaurant that was founded in 1959. As we've been there just a handful of times before over the last dozen years we've lived in Manhattan, owner Manuel ("Manny") Alejandro doesn't know us from Adam, either. But last night he greeted us with the warmest smile and handshakes, and seated us in a comfortable booth in the back of the restaurant (which Manny playfully referred to as the "honeymoon suite"). We love El Parador's chips and warm soupy salsa and their Jalapenos Rellenos stuffed with peanut butter, and last night we became fans of chef Alex Alejandro's chilaquiles and mussels. But mostly we love this slice of old New York that is bound to please even the most jaded restaurant goer – even on a first visit. The restaurant's motto has proven true on our every visit: "We're at your service. We're El Parador, the most accomodating restaurant in New York. The anwer is yes. What is your question?" [1/25/04]

DESSERTS TO DIE FOR
Box 287,
Williamsburg, VA  23187

www.dessertstodiefor.com or (757) 229-8610

Yesterday the the best chocolate cookie of our lives landed on our Manhattan doorstep:  Two-time James Beard Award winner Marcel Desaulniers (a 1965 graduate of The Culinary Institute of America and the only chef to have won Beard Awards for both his savory cuisine and for pastry) sent us a box of his amazing Absolutely Deep Dark Chocolate Fudge Cookies.  One bite prompted us to leave an immediate voicemail for Marcel letting him know that we hated him for sending them because we were going to eat every single cookie (our poor challenged waistlines!) – and loved him because they were so incredibly delicious!Then, a few moments ago, we opened an email from the parents of some of our best friends whom we'd recently advised not to miss Marcel's famed restaurant The Trellis during their recent visit to Williamburg.  Along with letting us know of their superlative experience enjoying Marcel's cuisine and desserts, they wrote the following:

"When we saw Marcel again, he was not as busy, and shared with us some of his misfortune:  Hurricane Isabel went through the Williamsburg area early in September. During the storm, Marcel lost his home completely to wind and flooding – everything.  The power was out for several days, so he lost all of his food and stocks at The Trellis. He has been extraordinarily busy with architects to rebuild the home, getting the restaurant restocked and running the restaurant. He confessed he was about worn out, and still did not have the restaurant back to normal."

Our hearts go out to Marcel for this terrible misfortune.  We hope to find out what we can do to help – in addition to encouraging everyone we know to patronize The Trellis and/or to order as many of his incredible Desserts to Die For as possible!

[12/20/03]


The best cappuccino in New York City?

ROSARIO ACQUISTA

22 E. 66th Street (at Madison Avenue)

(212) 288-3244

Yesterday I had what I think may well have been the best cappuccino I've ever tasted in Manhattan.  It was served on a small mother-of-pearl inlaid tray (that I later learned was procured at Barneys) just large enough to hold my little cup, a little plate of crunchy hazelnut biscotti, and a napkin. 

This is no cafe:  Rosario Acquista is destined to become the salon of choice for food lovers of all stripes.  Where else can you be greeted at the reception desk with a bowl full of chocolates from La Maison du Chocolat?  Owner Rosario Acquista, most recently Artistic Director at the Kim Lepine Salon five blocks south on Madison Avenue, has the eyes and hands of an artist, and the palate of a chef.  Not only can he provide one of the very best haircuts in town, but he can do so while recounting passionately the beloved dishes of his Italian childhood or those he just tasted at a friend's 50th birthday dinner at Restaurant Daniel around the corner.  I can't imagine why a food lover in need of trimmed tresses would go anywhere else!   –Karen Page [12/12/03]

ROYERS ROUND TOP CAFE

Round Top, Texas

(877) 866-PIES

www.royersroundtopcafe.com

Some of the best pies in America can be found in New York City...or Los Angeles, or San Francisco, or Chicago, or wherever YOU happen to be – because Bud Royer will have them FedExed right to your door from Round Top, Texas!    This Thanksgiving, we enjoyed some of America's Best Whole Pecan Pie, along with Round Top's specialty: Bud's Chocolate Chip Pie!  All feature signature "to die for" melt-in-your-mouth pie crusts.  This holiday season, give yourself (or someone you love!) the gift of pie! 

BEPPE

45 E. 22nd Street (bet. B'way & Park Ave. South)

(212) 982-8422

Beppe had long been on our list of restaurants we wanted to check out, but as every New Yorker knows, living in Manhattan is an embarrassment of riches:  "So many restaurants, so little time."   However, after having the pleasure of meeing Cesare Casella at an intimate lunch [mentioned below] hosted by Gourmet editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl (prepared in all its wonderous glory by Chanterelle's chef David Waltuck, who paired courses of aphrodisiacs with various styles of Perrier-Jouet Champagne), and being charmed by both his conversation and the handful of fresh aromatic herbs that adorned his suit jacket pocket, Beppe moved straight to the top of our list. 

We finally had the pleasure the other night, and it was an enormous pleasure indeed:  We are still daydreaming about Beppe's light-as-air gnocchi, and another extraordinary pasta dish made with white beans and grilled shrimp.  All the dishes were expertly paired with different wines (each of which was exactly to our taste!) by Beppe's sommelier David.

Earlier the same day, we'd been interviewed by Newsweek's Anna Kuchment about how to use pomegranates, and call it either a coincidence or a wonderful celebration of the season that two of the four delectable desserts that graced our table were adorned with fresh ruby-red pomegranate seeds!   [11/13/03]

CHANTERELLE

2 Harrison Street (at Hudson St.)

(212) 966-6960

We had the pleasure of eating one of the best examples we've ever tasted of Chanterelle chef-owner David Waltuck's cuisine as guests at an intimate lunch hosted by Gourmet's editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl in Gourmet's private dining room – which reminded us just how much we'd enjoyed it at lunch at Chanterelle this past Valentine's Day [2/14/03].  Certainly the themed aphrodisiac lunch helped to spur our memories!  After passed hors d'oeuvres of Herbed Beggar's Purses with Tsar Nicoulai Caviar, Deviled Quail Eggs with Tsar Nicoulai Caviar, and shot glasses of Chilled Beet Soup with Creme Fraiche and Tsar Nicoulai Caviar, we sat down to a Crazy Salad of Organic Mesclun, Lobster, Foie Gras and Papaya which was accompanied by a glass of Champagne Perrier Jouet 1993 Fleur de Champagne Blanc de Blancs.  That was followed by Blue Island Oysters with Fresh White Truffles, served with Champagne Perrier Jouet 1996 Fleur de Champagne.  The entree was a Breast of Squab with Braised Wild Mushroom and Butternut Squash Flan paired with Champagne Perrier Jouet 1997 Fleur de Champagne Rose.  And our feast was capped off by an ethereally light Passion Fruit Souffle with Cilantro and Pineapple Sorbet, matched with a glass of Champagne Perrier Jouet Extra Dry.  [11/11/03]

INSIDE

9 Jones Street (bet. West 4th St. & Bleecker, bet. 6th & 7th Aves.)

(212) 229-9999

We are always, but always, in the mood to eat the wonderfully homey food at INSIDE.  Whether for weekend brunch or a middle-of-the week dinner, this restaurant is a treasure.  And we have chef-owner Anne Rosenzweig (with whom Andrew had the privilege of cooking at Arcadia after we moved to New York City in 1992) to thank for taking her Uptown talents Downtown and creating a spot where they're more accessible to us on a regular basis price-wise.  In executive chef Charlene Badman's hands, the menu is a celebration of the market.  If it's fresh and ripe and available in New York City, you'll find it on the menu at INSIDE, cooked to perfection.  We love all the special menus featured on a regular basis, whether Mexican night on occasional Mondays, or a week spent celebrating a single ingredient ranging from garlic to pumpkin!  And the wine list (not to mention the special Reserve wines that you have to be an insider to have access to – HINT:  ask the staff about the interesting bottles positioned on the ledge to the left of the bar) is impressive, too.  As the restaurant is small, just be sure to save this restaurant tip for only your closest friends – or else one day soon none of us will be able to get in!  [11/8/03]


CAFE BOULUD
20 E. 76th Street (bet. Madison & Fifth Aves.)

(212) 772-2600

Andrew had the pleasure and privilege of preparing some dishes for Oscar-winning actress Shirley MacLaine while she was in Manhattan in late October 2003 on her book tour.   After leaving her hotel, we wanted to grab a quick bite to eat ourselves.  While it's been the site of many of our best (and longest!) lunches and dinners in New York City, we thought we might be able to snag a table or sit at the bar at Cafe Boulud for a few appetizers.  However, we'd forgotten that the dining room is equipped with video cameras that allow the kitchen to see who's arrived, and the restaurant would have none of it.  "A few appetizers" turned into a spontaneous multi-course extravaganza, thanks to one of the most talented chefs in New York City. 

Chef Andrew Carmellini has one of the most diverse bags of tricks of any New American chef:   He not only makes pasta that rivals any Italian chef's but he also cooks with flavors from around the world while doing so with a level of sophistication in keeping with the restaurant's three-star status.  To experience the height of his gifts, you've got to go on the ride of a tasting menu...so do as we do, and put yourself in the restaurant's hands.  At our lunch, we were blown away by dishes ranging from "Fall Squash Soup: Gala Apple, Exotic Spices, Coconut and Coriander Cream" to "My Grandmother's Ravioli: Friulian Meat Filling with Tomato, Parmesan" to "Thai Steamed Black Bass: Pea Leaves, Sticky Rice, Coconut-Lemongrass-Ginger Broth" to "Duo of Beef Short Ribs 'Mole Negra': Sweet Corn, Chayote Squash, Black Mole Sauce."    [10/22/03]

SOLERA

216 E. 53rd Street (bet. Third & Second Aves.)

(212) 644-1166

In our book Dining Out, we asked America's leading restaurant critics to tell us about five of their favorite restaurants – so we thought it was only fair to include ours, too.  Solera – where we had the pleasure of dining last night with guests whose fresh memories of Spain were re-enlivened with every bite – was, and remains, one of them. 

Anyone craving a taste of Spain right here in Manhattan will love this restaurant.  We love it for the tapas – from tortilla to marinated seafood to the best fried calamari we've ever tasted – which we easily turn into a meal most nights we're there, in the tapas bar as opposed to the more formal (and more expensive) dining room.  We love it for the wine list, which features a great selection of Spanish wines.  We love it for the Spanish cheese plate.  We love it for the picquetostes, an incredible bite of chocolate on toast points drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkled with fleur de sel.  We love it for the service:  host Ron Miller ensures that dining at Solera is an elegant experience, and Solera's ace team of waiters never miss a beat.  But mostly we love it for the opportunity to escape to Spain for a few hours any time we please, with only a $5 cab ride home!

"Thanks again for recommending Solera!  Ron Miller is an impeccably
gracious host. He was so helpful to me in making the arrangements. The private dining room was fabulous.  The food was out of this world, and the service was superb – anticipating needs, unobtrusive, courteous.  Just delightful. We had a wonderful time."
–Kelly Hughes, President, DeChant Hughes & Associates PR

AMY'S BREAD

672 Ninth Ave.  (bet. 46th & 47th Sts.)

75 Ninth Ave. (bet. 15th & 16th Sts. in Chelsea Market)

New Yorkers should count themselves lucky to have Amy Scherber in town.  Not only does she ensure a heavenly bread experience for the non-Atkins Plan diners among us in such top restaurants as Eleven Madison Park and Union Pacific, but her three retail locations are also a haven for the discerning palate looking to grab a quick but delicious bite in three different parts of the city. 

You'll find one of the best Cuban sandwiches in Manhattan pressed to order and served with crunchy slices of Gus's pickles, and – not surprisingly – desserts worth every calorie.  Our list of favorites keeps growing as we branch out to try new ones.  Yesterday, it was the amazing lemon bars, whose crust is a phenomenon until you realize just how wonderful and perfectly balanced the lemon topping is.  And those of us who grew up eating dream bars (graham cracker crust, sweetened condensed milk, lots of chocolate chips, coconut, etc.) get a rich blast from the past in every bite.  Including the best devil's food layer cake in the city (our pick, as well as the Village Voice's), all of Amy's cakes – from the unnaturally red Red Velvet cake to our favorite-ever carrot cake – are recommended.  Oh, and don't forget to pick up a loaf of bread (e.g. Amy's infamous fennel raisin, or our new favorite chocolate cherry) to toast for breakfast in the morning!

PEARL OYSTER BAR

18 Cornelia Street (bet. W. 4th St. & Bleecker)

(212) 691-8211

Summer's here, and the time is right...for lobster rolls and blueberry pie!  Well, maybe not quite for blueberry pie, which hasn't made it onto the menu here yet this season – but we can attest that the lobster rolls and accompanying shoestring potatoes are in great form at Pearl!  And even during a month without an "r" in it, we loved both the raw and fried oysters, not to mention the johnnycake with smoked salmon and creme fraiche.  In lieu of blueberry pie, we enjoyed the bittersweet chocolate mousse with whipped cream – doubtless one of the best chocolate desserts in town. 

Pearl also manages to serve as a community meeting place for some of the biggest foodies not just in New York City, but in America.  While in the past we've had a great time chatting with everyone from Peter and Loraine Boyle to the writers-producers of "The Sopranos" here, yesterday we ran into Chez Panisse's legendary chef-owner Alice Waters and her daughter Fanny, who were in for a quick lunch at the bar. Alice has written of chef-owner Rebecca Charles' wonderful new book Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie:  "I love this book because it brings me back to the counter at Pearl Oyster Bar, with its perfect steamer clams and incomparable lobster rolls."   We do, too!

FOOD IN MOTION

148 Chambers Street

(212) 766-4400

On Friday, May 9th, we attended a luncheon celebrating the launch of our close friend Rikki Klieman's new memoir Fairy Tales Can Come True at the lovely home of Tina Brown and Harry Evans.  As we were enjoying drinks and hors d'oeuvres in the garden before lunch, Karen overheard Ann Tisch asking a server, "Who's catering today?"  "Food In Motion," came the response.  Catering for such a discerning crowd of dozens (which included Peter Jennings and Barbara Walters, not to mention Rikki's husband LA Police Chief Bill Bratton and her publisher Judith Regan) is a tough challenge, but Food In Motion carried off the job flawlessly, to our eyes and palates.  The menu was smartly simple (a salad of seasonal greens, stuffed chicken with a pomegranate molasses glaze served with Israeli couscous and baby vegetables), and we truly feel sorry for any guest who had to leave early and miss the strawberry shortcake dessert!  [Boldface names in this paragraph are with a nod to one of Karen's charming tablemates, David Patrick Columbia of www.newyorksocialdiary.com.]